Charming Silver Moon
April 22nd, 2009 by Jihye Chang
I often think that running a great restaurant is somewhat like being a good musician. It’s so hard to do it well, and it’s even harder to do it well for a long time without losing the quality. It also require so much more than just good food or good technique - one wants to find some kind of magic, or personality, or feeling in good restaurants and good performances. And it makes people happy. (Plus same food and same performance may result in different reactions because everybody has different opinions.)
Silver Moon Supper Club is one of those restaurants with such charm and personality, located on Roberts Street in downtown Fargo. From outside you only get to see their impeccably clean kitchen. It does not even have a sign. I discovered this place while walking on the Roberts Street one day, and I thought it was a catering service with a small room for simple “suppers.” But when you enter the door, you will see a spacious, beautiful place bubbling with laughter, smile, noise, and general happiness. This place is decorated mainly black and white/silver, but in a really pretty way. The chandeliers and wine-glass looking lights are sparkly and bright in a non-overwhelming way. It’s polished but not the way that makes you uncomfortable. I love the water-fountain looking wall that’s below the separate dining room upstairs. The silver moon mobile hanging from the ceiling in the hallway is a nice touch. (I hear that this restaurant is paying a tribute to an old restaurant with the same name that was in Moorhead in the 60s, and the decoration is inspired by that era.)
And the food at Silver Moon is wonderful. The appearance of dishes served at the Silver Moon promises something good, and the taste usually lives up to that promise. (I don’t like restaurants with foods that try too hard to be something smart or different but poorly executed and taste bad. I would rather eat simply cooked steak or baked potatoes than poorly fried calamari in nori batter with mango and cucumber chutney)
I visited this restaurant once last year, when it had just opened, and once this year. And I ate dishes that I will remember with smile on both visits. Duck with campari-infused sweet potato was packed with unusual and pleasant flavors; shrimp cocktail with spicy mango chutney was so tasty and well balanced; Pork belly and pork rib dish with fried polenta and sauteed dark greens was almost perfect except the rib part was a bit dry; the shiitake mushroom rice pilaf (served as a side for their wonderful haddock dish) was fantastic. Complementary dinner rolls are served with cute and soft butter balls. These rolls are really dense and somewhat hard to eat, but tasty nonetheless. There is also a nice bar and the wine list is not extensive but nice enough.
Mr. Monte, who owns this place, is there to make sure that you are having a good time. He obviously LOVES this place, and so do I. I think it’s not been open for a year, and I really want to see it thriving for a very long time. I can’t wait to go back.
Minor imperfections - It is very loud. It’s a big space with high ceiling and wooden floor. You can feel that people are definitely having a great time here, but it’s really hard to have a good or soft conversation. The appetizer tray was pretty to look at and tasty but not as good as the dishes listed above. I did not care too much for their smoked salmon tower appetizer, either. Also the dessert is not that good. The tiramisu I ordered was too big, thick, and a bit dry. It also tasted more like cake with cream than tiramisu. I suppose I prefer purist desserts than innovative ones.. (I would eat a perfect creme brulee than a rosewater-infused or green-tea brulee!) Flourless chocolate cake was better than the tiramisu, but my friends agreed that the food was much better than the dessert. Lastly, their coffee is fine but not as good as the food. I wish they had a good espresso machine..!
Update on June 29, 2oo9 - Menu was significantly different! The Antipasto plate was better than last time. It had smoked salmon, pork belly (yum!!), brie and really nice gorgonzola cheese, spicy nuts, curried chicken salad, grapes, olives, potato puree with herbs and marinated artichoke, and crostinis. The dinner rolls were not as hard as last time and were very flavorful. I ordered a mixed green salad with lemon vinaigrette, berries, shaved manchego, caramelized onion, berries and hazelnut - it was one of the best salads I have ever had! The hazelnut was so crunchy and fragrant, the sweet flavor of berries and onion was balanced by the manchego cheese and the dressing. The whole thing was really refreshing, too. My husband’s romain salad with roasted jalapeno dressing and gorgonzola was great, too. For main dish I got the grilled lobster with sweet potato and apple salad and fried sweet potatoes. Lobster had wonderful smokiness from the grill and was really yummy with delicate lemon-herb cream sauce, but it was a bit hard to eat. Fried potato strips were amazing, but the potato-apple salad had a bit too much red onion to my taste. My husband got the Pork tenderloin special with lentil risotto and he loved it. For dessert, I got cream puff tower with mascarpone cheese cream and strawberries. It tasted so good, but the puff was on the dry side and not so puffed (it was more like dry elephant’s ear). Maybe that’s the style of Silver Moon’s dessert chef..? ?
Still it’s the one place I would go for something that I don’t know what it is. All the dishes are very interesting and different - not something that you have eaten before. But it’s a really nice surprise and pleasure.
Update in May, 2010: Someone asked me about their menu selections. Here’s what I remember from my 5 visits to the restaurant..
The menu is printed on a beautiful ivory paper, and changes seasonally.
Appetizers: $8-$15. Example: Cheese sampler, Antipasto plate, flat bread pizza, smoked salmon, etc. Also Silver Moon features very interesting and nice salads. All the salads I have ordered so far have been very satisfactory. (Caution: dressing with campari can be a bit salty and strong)
Usually 2 soup selections: $5-8. Hit or miss.
Main dishes: $22-$35. Example: smoked chicken, duck breast, grilled lobster tail, grilled salmon, other kinds of fish, pork belly, New York strip steak, etc. All main dishes have interesting vegetable components and sauces. Their duck dishes fish selections have been always good. Steak is hit or miss. I loved their pork belly dish (ate twice)..but it might be a winter item.
* House-made dinner rolls and small dollop of sorbet as a palate cleanser come with dinner.
Desserts: usually around $9-10. Desserts are not as strong as their other dishes in my opinion. They are always too precious and don’t taste good enough for the price tag. They don’t have espresso machine yet. OK coffee, and nice wine/ cocktail selections.



